I’d like to sum-up Argentinean-inspired Ox as: MEAT MEAT MEAT!! And while that’s partly the case, the open wood fire stove at this staple also puts out a mighty fine coal-roasted spaghetti squash and grilled asparagus. Chef-owner-partners Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quinonez Denton just pulled down the 2017 James Beard award for Best Chef Northwest, so you know they’re still coming in hot. They don’t take reservations, so last-minute tourists have just as much chance at a table as plan-ahead locals. ANDREA DAMEWOOD